NW Trails: Hiking the San Juan Islands
Springtime delights await at Washington’s awesome archipelago
Story and Photos by Craig Romano
Looking for an excellent springtime hiking destination? Set your sails (literally) for the San Juan Islands.
Situated between the Straits of Georgia and Juan de Fuca, the San Juans are surrounded by some of the most stunning coastal scenery in North America. Their rocky coastlines, sandy spits, forested mountains, pastoral countryside, and charming villages look like they were plucked right out of Maine.
But unlike northern New England’s islands where frosty winds whip well into spring, the San Juans are blessed with a mild climate, thanks to the Olympic Mountain rain-shadow. You’ll find plenty of great trails scattered across Orcas, San Juan and Lopez islands. Kid and dog-friendly ones, too.
And a trip to the San Juans in spring often means quiet trails, no ferry line, and great lodging deals tempting you to stay for awhile. Here are three excellent hikes to explore in Washington’s island paradise.
NW Trails is sponsored by:
Mount Finlayson
San Juan Island
Roundtrip: 3.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 290 feet
A well-worn path leads hikers around Mount Finlayson on San Juan Island
If the U.S. and Britain hadn’t come to the brink of war in 1859, we wouldn’t have been left with the longest stretch of public beach in the San Juan Islands. Mount Finlayson and the adjacent beaches and bluffs are now part of the San Juan National Historic Park.
Established to commemorate the “Pig War,” a confrontation over possession of the Oregon Country in which the only casualty was a Hudson’s Bay Company hog, this 1,750-acre park is divided into two sections, American and English Camp. Along with its historic importance, the park protects some stunning habitat, including one of the few native grasslands remaining along the Strait of Juan de Fuca.
Follow the trail gently climbing across golden grasslands lined with windblown contorted firs. Maritime views grow with each step up the long low ridge of Mount Finlayson, named for one of the founders of Victoria, British Columbia.
At 1.3 miles, a trail leads left — your return route. But first continue straight for another .1 mile to crest Finlayson’s 290-foot summit taking in spectacular views of Cattle Point, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, and the snowy Olympic Mountains. Then head down the short side trail dropping into a cool ravine shaded by big firs and cedars. At a junction, turn left following an old woods road back to the trailhead.
Consider exploring the side trail to Jakle’s Lagoon for a nice view of Mount Constitution and Turtleback Mountain across Griffin Bay.
Turtleback Mountain
Orcas Island
Roundtrip: 3 miles
Elevation Gain: 800 feet
Land managers plan on adding miles of new trails to the 1,578-acre Turtleback Mountain Preserve, which was just opened to the public in 2007. Meanwhile, hiking is limited primarily to existing woods roads. This hike to the Ship Peak Overlook offers some of the finest views in the entire preserve.
Start by walking up dirt Wild Rose Lane for 500 feet to a gated road signed “Turtleback South Trail.” Under a canopy of fir, madrona, and oak, follow the winding woods road upward to an open shrubby slope reminiscent of a Southern Appalachian bald. The way steepens before reaching an old cabin perched on a panoramic point. Stare south at glistening waters punctuated by the San Juans, and west to Canada’s Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island.
For Ship Peak, locate a trail behind the cabin and follow it for .2 mile to a junction. Head right here for .3 mile climbing open mossy ledges adorned with oaks to the 930-foot Ship Peak overlook. What a view! East Sound, West Sound, and San Juan Islands’ highpoint Mount Constitution rising over the rolling pastures of Crow Valley.
Spencer Spit
Lopez Island
Roundtrip: 1.75 miles
Elevation Gain: 60 feet
A bundled-up hiker jumps a stream at low time on Spencer Spit
A delightful hike year-round, Spencer Spit is a dynamic environment always in flux. Head downhill from the trailhead, immediately coming to a junction. Turn right and reach an inviting picnic area. Homesteaded in the 1880s by the Spencer and Troxell Families, fruit trees and other remnants of their tenure grace the area. So, too, do hundreds of passive rabbits. In 1967 the spit and adjacent uplands — 138 acres in all — were transferred to Washington State Parks.
Now explore the spit either by hiking the beach or, if the tide is high, by trail. It’s a .4 mile glorious walk to the tip of the spit where Frost Island teasingly tempts to be touched. If the spit ever embraces the island, a land formation known as a tombolo will be created.
Check out the log cabin constructed of driftwood logs at the tip of the spit. Then return via the north shore of the spit watching for playful harbor seals and plying ferries. Look, too, for scurrying shorebirds, surf-riding waterfowl, and majestic eagles soaring above.
Expect wet feet crossing a creek draining the spit’s interior lagoon. Then continue along the beach to a walk-in campground. Turn left here following a lagoon-hugging trail back to the picnic area near the trailhead.
Trailhead Directions
Mount Finlayson: Take ferry from Anacortes to Friday Harbor. Follow Spring Street for .5 mile through town turning left onto Mullis Road which becomes Cattle Point Road. Follow for 6.7 miles to trailhead (singed “Jakle’s Lagoon”) located in American Camp in San Juan NHP.
Turtleback Mountain: Take ferry from Anacortes to Orcas (Island) Landing. Follow Orcas Road (Horseshoe Highway) 2.5 miles north turning left onto Deer Harbor Road. Continue for 2.2 miles turning right onto Wild Rose Lane and in .1 mile reach trailhead.
Spencer Spit: Take ferry from Anacortes to Lopez Island. Follow Ferry Road south for 1.2 miles turning left onto Port Stanley Road. Proceed for 2.4 miles turning left onto Baker View Road and reach Spencer Spit State Park in .6 mile. Continue for another .4 mile to day-use area and trailhead. If park road is gated, park and take trail leaving right from gate .4 mile to spit.
*Note: Dogs permitted on all three hikes but must be leashed.
For lodging information: www.visitsanjuans.com
Contacts
Mount Finlayson: San Juan Island National Historic Park, www.nps.gov/sajh
Turtleback Mountain: San Juan County Land Bank, www.co.san-juan.wa.us
Spencer Spit: Spencer Spit State Park, www.parks.wa.gov
Craig Romano is Trails Editor of Outdoors NW and author of eight Northwest hiking guidebooks with Mountaineers Books including Day Hiking North Cascades which contains a chapter on San Juan Islands hikes. Visit him at http://CraigRomano.com
