Magical Salt Spring Island

By Hilary Meyerson
Photos by Randy Meyerson

Photo at right: One of the mysterious fairy doors on the Mt. Erkskine hike.

 

I knew there was something magical about Salt Spring Island even before I spied the fairy door at the base of a tree while hiking Mt. Erskine.

It was a carefully painted 18-inch high door with rounded top and an ornate handle. As if the views from the top of the steep hike weren’t incentive enough, my family was immediately consumed by hunting for more fairy doors. We learned later the doors had mysteriously appeared on this trail, with no explanation.

Whimsy, art and a drop-dead gorgeous natural setting all go hand-in-hand on Salt Spring.

Getting There

Salt Spring Island is one of the Canadian Gulf Islands, just north of the U.S.’s San Juan Islands and B.C.’s capital Victoria. From the U.S., there are a number of ways to get there. B.C. Ferries has three routes connecting to the island, though the most direct way from Seattle is the one from Tsawwassen (just south of Vancouver, B.C.) to Long Harbor.

The B.C. Ferry itself is a great start to a Salt Spring getaway. They are a pleasure to ride—a mini-cruise with comfortable seating and views galore. Look for whales and other marine wildlife from the boat.

There is also a frequent ferry from Victoria to the island’s Fulford Harbor. A smaller ferry from further north on Vancouver Island can take you to yet another small port at Vesuvius. There is also seaplane travel from Seattle or Vancouver.

Relax or Thrill

Salt Spring is known for its thriving artistic and culinary community. It’s one of those rare places where tourism adds to the economy and the community without overwhelming visitors with garish souvenir shops or tacky attractions.

Another unique feature: they’ve got their own money. Yes, you can buy Salt Spring dollars, the loveliest currency you’ve ever laid eyes on. It’s only good on the island—so spend away!

Your first stop with your dollars should be the famous Saturday Farmers Market in Ganges, held from April–October. Every purveyor at the market must make, bake or otherwise create their wares themselves on the island. Everything from handmade soaps to decadent goat cheeses to the freshest produce and baked goods is available.

We began our day with fresh breakfast quiches, olive rolls and berry tarts, and later loaded our bags with glass jewelry and other handmade treasures. After a leisurely morning, we headed over to the Salt Spring Adventure Company at the Salt Spring Marina where we rented some cruiser bikes for a spin. It’s typical rural riding (watch out for trucks and tractors!) but a great way to see some of the farms and the studios on the island. Pick up a studio tour map at the Visitor’s Center and you can stop to check out a potter or a fiber artist. We picked the perfect evening for a kayak tour of Ganges Harbour where our guide paddled us past the string of small private islands in the Harbour. It’s a friendly place, and every person we passed, on boats or islands, gave us a wave and a greeting. Even the harbor seals popped up to say hello.

The next day, we drove up Mt. Maxwell, where we could walk to the viewpoint to see a panoramic view of the island and the other Gulf Islands, as well as Vancouver Island off to the west. It’s the easiest way to get a stunning view. A more fun way is the hike up Mt. Erskine, with its fairy doors. The fairies must have good calf muscles—it’s a steep climb.

Ready for more water adventures, we called Ian Gidney of Outdoor Visions. His high-speed Zodiac boat is a thrill. He offers whale watching (depending on the sightings), marine wildlife and coastal sightseeing tours, as well as high-speed transport to other islands for hiking or biking without the strictures of a ferry schedule.

Our boat flew out of Ganges Harbour, giving us a close look at seals lounging on rocky islands before speeding us home, skimming the waves so fast the kids were shrieking with delight.

Culinary Adventures

Salt Spring is a far cry from tourist island towns with the ubiquitous fried seafood baskets or overpriced burgers. Most restaurants offer organic and locally-sourced gourmet fare. Case in point: the Harbour House Hotel, Restaurant and Organic Farm, where they take farm-to-table seriously.

After a fantastic brunch, we were treated to a farm tour, not even 25 yards from where we had dined. Everything used in the restaurant is grown here, under farm manager Rob Scheres’ watch. They keep bees for their honey and make their own syrup. Everyone has a hand in the experience—during slow hours, the servers come and work in the garden.

We also enjoyed the Treehouse Café, the most unusual open-air restaurant in Ganges, with a plum tree growing right in the middle, and canvas awnings serving as a ceiling. Not even a few drops of rain discourage guests who come for the food and the nightly live music. Equally good was dinner at the Oystercatcher, a harborside restaurant where we downed fresh raw Kusshi oysters.

Although we had loaded up on tomato jam and goat cheeses at the Saturday market, we couldn’t resist pulling over to many of the self-serve farm stands that dot the roadsides. While most offer flowers or fresh eggs, we stopped by several for artisan-roasted coffee, baked goods, jellies and even pottery.

Pillow Talk

When visiting Salt Spring, think lovely and quaint rather than snobbish or luxurious. That’s not to say you can’t find high-priced accommodations, but more are reasonably priced bed and breakfasts or lovely inns. For a family visit, our lodgings at the St. Mary’s Lake Resort were perfect. Our two-bedroom cottage had a spotless kitchen and large deck with views of the lake. A beach and dock with rental boats made a perfect spot to relax between adventures.

We only found three of the fairy houses on our Mt. Erskine hike. We’ve decided that’s reason enough to come back to Salt Spring Island. The food, the stunning views, the outdoor adventures—all are part of the magic that keeps bringing visitors back.

 

Hilary Meyerson is the editor of Outdoors NW magazine and thinks all hikes should have fairy doors.

Salt Spring Island Business Directory . . .

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