Weekender: Long Beach, Wash.
Adventure awaits along 28 miles of Pacific Ocean bliss
By Rebecca Agiewich
Photo at right: Biking at Cape Disappointment State Park. Photo by Rebecca Agiewich
Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula is known for its abundance. It’s got oysters. Birds. History. Lighthouses. And beach—28 miles of it—making it one of the longest continuous stretches in the country. Long Beach, Wash. has been named one of “America’s Favorite Beach Towns” by ForbesTraveler.com.
You need weeks to truly enjoy all that this spectacular shoreline along Washington’s southwest coast offers. My husband Dave and I were determined to gorge ourselves on as many outdoor delights as we could in two days last May. And between adventures, we fueled ourselves with treats from the area’s top-notch restaurants.
Horseback ride on the beach
Dave Taylor on horseback. Photo by Rebecca Agiewich
Things started off right with breakfast at the charming Shelburne Inn in Seaview, where owner David Campiche served up mouth-watering brioche French toast, strong coffee, and entertaining conversation. Then we headed out on our first adventure of the weekend: a horseback ride on the beach with Back Country Outfitters.
You couldn’t ask for a better riding beach than the broad, flat one in Seaview, which seems to go on forever. On our gentle horses, we walked and cantered along the sun-warmed shoreline and I felt winter fade further with every hoof print in the sand. I’d always wanted to ride on the beach, and this two-hour excursion didn’t disappoint.
At our turnaround point, we had a stunning view of the dramatic cliffs of Cape Disappointment State Park. Several hours later, we were standing on those very cliffs, looking out at a sweeping view of the confluence of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean.
Cape Disappointment State Park
Our trip to Cape Disappointment State Park started with a ramble on the Westwind Trail. We had this sun-dappled and wildflower-strewn forest hiking trail to ourselves—except for the frogs. At least a dozen little brown frogs hopped back and forth across the one-mile path, and their chorus of croaks occasionally echoed through the trees.
Biking near North Head Lighthouse. Photo by Rebecca Agiewich
Next we took the accessible and bike-friendly trail to the North Head lighthouse. This iconic Northwest beacon was constructed in 1856 in response to the many shipwrecks that occurred here at the mouth of the Columbia River (the “graveyard of the Pacific”).
Though dangerous for boats, the area offers glorious views from above, and you can see why William Clark enthused about it in his journal from 1805: “Men appear much satisfied with their trip beholding with astonishment the high waves dashing against the rock and this eminence Ocian.”
Biking the Discovery Trail
There was still much left to see at Cape Disappointment State Park. So, after carbo-loading on gnocchi at The Depot for dinner, the next day we combined a bike ride on the Discovery Trail with another trip to the park.
The mostly-paved 8.5-mile Discovery Trail extends north-south from Long Beach to Ilwaco, taking you through grassy dunes with gorgeous glimpses of ocean along the way. Sculpture and interpretive exhibits along the trail teach you about the area’s rich history.
After pedaling south from Seaview, we noticed how the trail changed from windswept dunes to cool forest as it neared Ilwaco and Cape Disappointment State Park. After reaching the park, we biked to the trailhead at the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse (the oldest lighthouse still in use on the west coast), and then followed the short hiking trail to the lighthouse.
We had so much difficulty tearing ourselves away from the Long Beach Peninsula that we didn’t get back home to Seattle until late on Sunday night. As we drove north past famous Willapa Bay—one area we didn’t get to explore on this trip—we vowed to come back soon, next time with our kayak.
Rebecca Agiewich of Seattle is a regular contributor to Outdoors NW. Her last travel article was about Tree Climbing in Oregon in our July/August, 2013 edition. goldtravelblog.com/2013/escapes-go-climb-a-tree-in-central-oregon
If you go
General
Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau: funbeach.com
Eating and Sleeping
China Beach Retreat: Tucked away on a peaceful cove, this three-room inn just round the corner from Cape Disappointment State Park offers stunning views out to a Columbia River estuary. The Audubon Cottage next door offers even more privacy. Bring binoculars for bird watching! www.chinabeachretreat.com
Shelburne Inn: The oldest continuously operating hotel in the state of Washington, this award-winning bed-and-breakfast is owned by David Campiche and Laurie Anderson, who also own the China Beach Retreat. www.theshelburneinn.com
The Depot: A lively restaurant that used to be a railroad depot in the early 1900s. Think seafood here, folks, lots of it! www.depotrestaurantdining.com
42nd Street Café: A “casual yet upscale” eatery showcasing seafood from the Columbia River, the Pacific, and Willapa Bay. www.42ndstcafe.com
Cape Disappointment State Park: www.parks.wa.gov; www.capedisappointment.org
Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau: www.funbeach.com
Discovery Trail: www.funbeach.com/local-attractions/discovery-trail
