Long Beach to Ilwaco along the Discovery Trail

By Allen Cox

The Discovery Trail on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula crosses a broad Pacific beach, grassy dunes, seaside forests and postcard-ready ocean bluffs.

You can bike it or walk it, and if you tackle all, or even a portion, of this remarkable mostly paved trail, you’ll be treated to some of the state’s most exhilarating seaside scenery, while enjoying stimulating art and interesting interpretive exhibits along the way.

You’ll also gain a new appreciation for the compelling history of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The 8.5-mile Discovery Trail joins the popular vacation town of Long Beach on the north end of the peninsula and the historic fishing village of Ilwaco near the mouth of the Columbia River to the south.

Unlike many trails that connect towns, this one doesn’t parallel the highway in sight of traffic, but slices its own route through landscapes that attract photographers, painters and wildlife. Spend a short time on the trail and you’ll understand why.

The Discovery Trail can be explored again and again, with something new to surprise you each time. Make time for at least a portion of it whenever you’re on the Long Beach Peninsula. Many different access points make this easy to do in short round-trip stretches. Taking on the entire 17 mile roundtrip makes an excellent day-ride by bicycle, but on foot consider a light overnight pack and lodging at either end before the about-face return.

Trailside Points of Interest including “Graveyard of the Pacific”

The north trailhead begins at 26th Street North in North Long Beach (parking is available; secure or carry valuables). The Discovery Trail starts out paved in the dunes with the first point of interest (besides the Pacific Ocean) being “Clark’s Tree,” a bronze sculpture by Stanley Wanlass commemorating the carving Clark made in a pine tree Nov. 19, 1805. The inscription reads: “William Clark. Nov. 19, 1805. By land from the U. States.”

The trail continues south through the dunes, jockeying between pavement and boardwalk, a popular feature of Long Beach’s shoreline. The boardwalk offers elevated views out to sea, so carry binoculars to sweep the horizon for ships or even breaching whales.

In less than two miles, you’ll come to more sculptures. Pause at the basalt monolith inscribed with fascinating quotes from Clark’s journal about his observations in this area. A nearby bronze sculpture of Clark with a 10-foot sturgeon, by Washington sculptor Jim Demetro, suspends time and reminds us of the historical significance of the Lewis and Clark journey. You almost feel the life-size statue will speak.

In another half mile, you’ll encounter the bleached skeleton of a 38-foot juvenile gray whale that beached in 2000. The dead whale was buried on the beach and later excavated and installed as a natural history exhibit on this spot along the trail.

By now, you’ve passed several trailheads where Long Beach city streets meet the beach, each a possible place to cut your exploration short and turn back or to begin a shorter segment of the trail. If the weather is cooperating, keep going.

Past the whale skeleton, the trail continues for several miles through more isolated dunes and bluffs and, at around the six-mile mark, heads inland at Beard’s Hollow.

This stretch of Cape Disappointment was named for Captain E. N. Beard, whose ship, Vandalia, went down at the mouth of the Columbia in 1853. The entire crew was lost and Capt. Beard’s body was found on the circular beach at what is now known at Beard’s Hollow.

This stretch of Pacific Coast is one of the most treacherous to navigate anywhere on earth, earning it the name “Graveyard of the Pacific.” Since people began keeping track in 1792, about 2,000 ships have gone down in these waters, and fatal shipwrecks still happen.

For an excellent primer on what makes these seas so dangerous, take the short spur trail from Beard’s Hollow to North Head Lighthouse, which is open to the public for tours. Climb the 69-step spiral stair to the light chamber and experience one of the foggiest and windiest spots on the West Coast. From here, weather permitting, you can survey the mouth of the Columbia and down the coastline into Oregon.

The Discovery Trail only skirts Cape Disappointment, so if time allows, continue on to explore the park before rejoining the main route. This side trip is well worth it with yet another lighthouse (Cape Disappointment Light), Waikiki Beach—a favorite with surfers, and views of crashing waves and turbulent seas near the mouth of the river.

Between Cape Disappointment Light and Waikiki Beach, you’ll find the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, where you’ll gain a more in-depth historical perspective on the region. The westernmost installation of the seven-site Confluence Project by famed artist Maya Lin occupies this park as well, celebrating the confluence of rivers, sea and cultures.

Into Ilwaco

Hit the Discovery Trail again and go the final stretch into Ilwaco, a small fishing town with a colorful past of its own. In Ilwaco, the trail follows city streets to its terminus at the Port of Ilwaco. In town, you’ll pass the Columbia River Heritage Museum, worth a visit for a look at the region’s Chinook culture, pioneer settlement, and the early fishing industry that was so crucial to the area’s economy.

When you finish a thorough exploration of the Discovery Trail, you’ll not only have experienced some great scenery and a healthy dose of exercise, you’ll have a new appreciation for this fascinating corner of Washington state as well.

Discovery Trail Resources

You could begin the hike or bike ride at either end of the Discovery Trail or at many points along its route. If you’re in the region for a night or longer, you’ll find excellent lodging and restaurants near your starting point. Here are a few suggestions:

Longbeach:

Adrift Hotel, www.adrifthotel.com; (360) 642-3211; 409 Sid Snyder Drive

Boreas Bed & Breakfast Inn, www.boreasinn.com; (888) 642-8069; 607 N. Ocean Beach Blvd.

Seaview:

The Shelburne Inn, www.theshelburneinn.com; (800) 466-1896; 4415 Pacific Way

The Shelburne Restaurant & Pub, www.theshelburnerestaurant.com; (360) 642-4150

The Depot Restaurant,
www.depotrestaurantdin
ing.com; (360) 642-7880; 1208 38th Place & L

Ilwaco:

China Beach Retreat, www.chinabeachretreat.com; (360) 642-2442;
222 Robert Gray Drive

Pelicano Restaurant, www.pelicanorestaurant.com; (360) 642-4034; 177 Howerton Way SE

More information:

Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau,
www.funbeach.com;
(800) 451-2542; Highways 101 and 103, Seaview

Allen Cox is a Northwest writer with a focus on travel, recreation and lifestyle.

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