Escapes: Tokeland, Wash.
Tokeland: Adventures along the Cranberry Coast
Story and Photos by Rebecca Agiewich
Once upon a time, the oceanside town of Tokeland bustled with activity. In the late 1800s, this serene area on the north end of Willapa Bay on the southwestern coast of Washington throbbed with business from the oyster and lumber trades. Guests arrived in droves by steamer and carriage to stay at the popular Kindred Inn. Eager businessmen even talked of turning Tokeland into a Coney Island-style resort in 1910.
Sadly, those plans never materialized, and soon the community fell on hard times. A series of severe storms wreaked destruction on the low-lying peninsula in the 1930s. The Depression brought economic damage and a drop in tourism.
Today, as you stroll the quiet, salty-smelling streets of Tokeland, it’s hard to envision the raucous resort town the developers had in mind. However, it’s easy to see why people came here—and still do. The ocean surrounds you, and it’s easy to lose yourself in its rhythms.
Tokeland Hotel
One of the best vantage points for enjoying Tokeland’s serenity is the Tokeland Hotel (formerly the Kindred Inn). First established in 1885, the hotel has seen its fortunes rise and fall like the tides. Now the oldest resort hotel in Washington is thriving at the hands of its current owners.
After purchasing it in 1989, Scott and Katherine White have restored the national historic landmark to its turn-of-the-century glory.
With views of Willapa Bay in every direction, the 18-room hotel exudes warmth and friendliness. The wood floors, narrow staircases, and twisting hallways add to its charm. Rumor has it that a ghost haunts the upper floors and the antique décor makes you feel like you’ve stepped onto the set of a Clint Eastwood western—albeit a peaceful one. A full restaurant serves three meals a day, and a special Sunday dinner includes the hotel’s famous cranberry pot roast.
Watery adventures along the Cranberry Coast
From this welcoming home base, you’re only a stone’s throw from all that the “Cranberry Coast” has to offer, so named after the thousands of acres of cranberry bogs that were started by Finnish farmers along the coast nearly 150 years ago.
Stroll out the hotel door and east along Kindred Avenue with the ocean murmuring in your ear. After a few blocks, you reach Nelson Crab. Established in 1934, it was the first crab cannery on the West Coast. Today it’s still a thriving family business that ships its fresh-caught Dungeness crab around the world, and has a cool, retro storefront where you can step in and browse for seafood, packed and ready to take home.
A few blocks later, you reach the public dock at Toke Point. Here, the bay unfurls before you, boats bob gently on the water, and the Willapa Hills beckon in the distance. From here you can launch a kayak adventure onto the Willapa Bay Water Trail which stretches the length of pristine Willapa Bay. Access the water trail from the Tokeland Marina and paddle up the short Cedar River or into Willapa Bay. (Bring your own kayak; there are no outfitters nearby.)
More water adventures await both south and north on the Cranberry Coast. Head north on Highway 105 and you’ll find 18 miles of ocean beaches stretching through Tokeland and the northern towns of Grayland and Westport. Surfing, clamming, sport fishing, kite-flying, and whale watching are all popular here. A string of gorgeous state parks provide access to these beaches, including Grayland Beach State Park, Westport Light State Park and Westhaven State Park.
Alternatively, head south and take the scenic 30-mile route to the towns of Raymond and South Bend at the mouth of the Willapa River, where birding, hiking, and paddling opportunities abound. Regardless of your choice of excursions, Tokeland serves as an excellent place to relax or as a home base for your next coastal adventure.
If you go
Tokeland Hotel (pets welcome): www.tokelandhotel.com
Cranberry Coast Guide: cranberrycoastguide.com
Washington State Parks, Pacific Coast Region: www.parks.wa.gov/parks
Westport-Grayland Chamber of Commerce: www.westportgrayland-chamber.org
Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce: willapaharbor.org
Willapa Water Trail: www.wwta.org/trails/willapa_bay/
Rebecca Agiewich is a freelance travel writer living in Seattle.
